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Home > Travelogues > 2017 Travelogues Index > Bridgetown to Border Village

Heading through the Western Australian Wheatbelt and Hyden-Norseman Road to join the Eyre Highway into South Australia


Our first stop was in the wheatbelt town of Dumbleyung.


In 1964, Donald Campbell set two speed records in Australia, on land and on water.


Bluebird was still and quiet on New Year’s Day 1965, basking in the glory of the achievement in breaking the world water speed record for Donald Campbell the day before. These were exciting times for the rural community of Dumbleyung, and our friends were farming not far from Lake Dumbleyung.  We often visited them for New Year’s Day and took a short drive to the lake, with water skiing and swimming part of the day’s activities.  This time we weren’t boating, but looking at the Bluebird. I felt deeply honoured when my sister took a photo of me leaning against this famous speedcraft.


Donald Campbell came to Western Australia following unsuccessful attempts on the water speed record at Lake Bonney, Barmera, South Australia in November 1964.  


It was on 31 December 1964, during wetter seasons in the wheatbelt, that Donald Campbell set the water speed record in his boat 'Bluebird', reaching the average speed of 444.66 kilometres per hour over a kilometre stretch during two runs. Campbell had dominated the world water speed records for a decade.  In doing so before the end of the year enabled Donald Campbell to gain a double in 1964, having broken the land speed record on Lake Eyre in South Australia on 17th July that year. 


A memorial to Campbell stands on top of Pussycat Hill overlooking the lake.  Campbell died in England two years later when he was attempting to break the record he had set at Lake Dumbleyung, still using Bluebird K7. 

His record was broken in 1967, and this was broken again by the record holder, Ken Warby, who then broke his own record when he achieved 511.12 kilometres per hour on Blowering Dam in 1978, which is now the current record speed.  


Lake Dumbleyung, a shallow salt pan, is the largest body of inland water in southern Western Australia. When full it covers an area of around thirteen by seven kilometres.  Today the lake is used mainly for local recreation, and when we called in November 2009, water levels were a lot lower than in 1964. 


Donald Campbell remains the only person to have broken both the World Land Speed Record and World Speed Record in the same year.


On 31st December 2014, at a ceremony to mark the 50th anniversary of Donald Campbell's record, his daughter Gina Campbell, a water speed champion in her own right, unveiled a full scale replica of Bluebird K7 at Dumbleyung.  


You can read about Gina and other family members who made up a dynasty of speed in Gina Campbell's own website. 

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Lake Dumbleyung on our visit in 2009.  This lake held more water in 1964 when Donald Campbell broke the world water speed record.   

The lake has only overflowed three times in the last 100 years, and some years it becomes quite dry.  After a succession of dryer years, Lake Dumbleyung last overflowed in February 2017.


Lake Dumbleyung is shallow salt lake 13 kilometres in length, 6.5 kilometres in width, has a perimeter of 42 kilometres, an area of 5200 hectares (52 square kilometres) and has a capacity of 200 Gigalitres. 

The Old Railway Station precinct on the road through Dumbleyung is a well preserved example of rural railway stations.  Dating back to the opening of the railway line to Dumbleyung in 1913, and used by Western Australian Government Railways until 1984, then by community organisations until becoming a museum. 
This is also near the Bluebird replica, with a roomy parking loop suitable for caravans, and a toilet block which includes a hot shower. 
Due to an auto-electrical problem we stopped overnight at Lake Grace Caravan Park, a small and pleasant park, to have repairs done the next morning, then move on.  At first heading north to Hyden, then east on the unsealed Hyden-Norseman Road.  You can read more about the Hyden-Norseman Road from previous trips.  
Along the entire Hyden-Norseman Road there are marked features of interest.  Download the Granite Woodlands Discovery Trail brochure here
From Norseman, the Eyre Highway commences.  Around fifty kilometres west of Balladonia Roadhouse, a track goes a kilometre in to Newman Rocks, where there are numerous tracks and places to stop for the night with privacy. 
We chose a spot on the rocks, overlooking a small dam. 
Having driven on the Eyre a number of times before, see Eyre Highway crossing the Nullarbor Western Australia page, no more photos were taken this time until we reached the South Australian border. 
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The Eucla National Park encompasses 3,340 hectares of coastal scrubland and sand dunes between the state border, the Eyre Highway and the coast. Entering from South Australia at Border Village, there are numerous tracks to follow by vehicle and on foot. 
The park includes Wilson Bluff, on the Western end of the Bunda Cliffs, and the Delissa Sandhills that follow the coast from where the cliffs deviate inland and away from the coast. 
The ruins of the Old Telegraph Station at Eucla are being buried by the shifting sand dunes, and are at the western edge of the Eucla National Park. 
Photo above left looks into the park from the west, across the dunes to the cliff on the horizon, at the point where they leave the coast and run inland. 
Photo above right shows the state of the park on the eastern side at the Western Australian - South Australian border.
This sign, marking the state border is in a parking bay just off The Eyre Highway.  It is a popular photo location for people to photograph their rigs or themselves. 
We left Western Australia and entered South Australia at Border Village; a quarantine station, roadhouse and caravan park, where we stayed for a day due to high winds. 
Between Balladonia and Caiguna, a straight stretch on the Eyre Highway runs for ninety miles, or according to the sign, 145.6 kilometres. 
While not the longest straight road in the world, it is said to be the longest in Australia. 

A cave breathes out when air pressure falls, and breathes in when it rises.  Speed of air movement is related to the cross sectional area of a cave's entrance.  Air movement in a large cave entrance can be almost impossible to detect. 

The Nullarbor is the direst karst (limestone) area in the world. 


About twenty of the many Nullarbor caves are of impressively large size, and some have many kilometres of spacious passages.  Some contain remarkable lakes and extensive underwater passages.
From signage on site

The blowholes on the Nullarbor have been formed by weathering through to underground cavities.  The cave below here has clearance heights of about 0.5 to 1.5 metres. 


All caves breathe.  Nullarbor caves breather more vigorously than caves in any other area of Australia.  Air movement at one Nullarbor cave entrance has been measured at 72 kilometres per hour. 


Caiguna Blowhole below.


Follow our trip through South Australia on the following pages
Western Australia