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Home > Travelogues > 2009 Travelogues Index > Gary Junction Road > Northern Territory
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The Gary Junction Road through to Alice Springs, Northern Territory section

Between the scenic Mount Liebig at 901 metres and Mount Strickland, sits Kintore (Walungurru); a settlement with a population of over 500 people.   We arrived a few minutes after 11.30 am just in time for the last of the morning openings of the quaint fuel station – bowsers locked in this colourful painted shed, and joined to queue of cars; some tourists but mostly locals including a few on foot carrying their jerry cans. 

  

The other side of the shed advertises the Kintore Hawks football team.  A beaming young man told us he plays for the Hawks, and that they have won a few games this year. 

 

A red Landcruiser, with smoke pouring out of the exhaust, was trying to push start a battered white Landcruiser with jerks and crunches.  The white Landcruiser started, but soon stopped again.  The driver took a jerry can to join the petrol queue, and once he had refuelled the vehicle, he then used it to push start the red Landcruiser, which had by then also stopped.  Such was the entertainment in the centre of Kintore as we awaited our turn to fill with diesel. 

 

 

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Even then, the attendant said they are sometimes closed on a Tuesday - or on any other day they chose.  You cannot guarantee you will get fuel here every day of the week.

Opening times as signed at Kintore fuel outlet are: 

The orange sandy road was much wider as we continued into the Northern Territory, and was in good condition.  Tiny Aboriginal communities such as Ininti and Illpilli, consisting of a couple of houses, seemed completely deserted with access tracks overgrown.  

The Sandy Blight Junction turn-off was a further seventeen kilometres east of the Kintore turn-off.  This is another of the Len Beadell Roads, which zig-zags back into Western Australia to meet the Great Central Road east of Warakurna.  It is signed four wheel drive only, and 340 kilometres to Docker River (the settlement on the Northern Territory side of the border).   

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From the orange road, distant hills, rugged in the sunlight to the south, and shades of blue and mauve looking towards the sun in the north.  Mount Liebig came into view and is particularly striking.  Len Beadell lined up the road to take advantage of the view and described “The whole section of that country was amongst the most picturesque in Central Australia.”  1960

 

Heading further east the next day, we passed Mount Liebig and other ranges in varying colours, shapes and textures.  Len certainly captured the beauty of the area in his phrase. 

 

As we passed the community at Papunya, Mount Zeil came into view. Although 55 kilometres away, this highest point of the West MacDonnell Ranges stood out from the surrounding hills. 

 

The brick coloured Haast Bluff dominated as we approached and turned south onto Haasts Bluff Road.  Near Haast Bluff we passed a memorial to Frederick Blakeley.  

Stopping to check another Len Beadell plaque, we drove in a little way from the road to find a very good place to camp.  Lizard Bore has been decommissioned and the solar panels from the pump have been removed.  There was neither hand pump nor any other way of drawing water from the bore, which was a pity as I found our general water tanks were empty.

 

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This road varied between wide and firm to narrow, winding and sandy. We enjoyed views of Mount Zeil, Mount Razorback and Mount Sonder before joining Namatjira Drive to the east of Glen Helen. 
 
Mount Zeil, at 1,531 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in the Macdonnell Ranges, and the highest peak in the Northern Territory.   

Extract from plaque at the site:

 

Frederick Blakely (1882 – 1962)

Bushman, prospector, author, and friend of the Aboriginal people.

 

Blakeley began work at 12 years of age in the mines at Broken Hill. He spent many years in the Outback prospecting for gold, opal, and tin.

 

In 1908, with Dick and Jim O’Neill, Fred cycled from White Cliffs (NSW) to Darwin (NT).  They assisted Aunger and Dutton complete the first motor car crossing of Australia and met with Francis Birtles on the first trans-Australia bicycle ride. In 1915-1919, the trio pioneered the Coober Pedy opal field (SA). Fred’s outback classic, “Hard Liberty (1938) describes their adventures.

 

Fred Blakeley camped here at Ngankirritja (Haasts Bluff) in 1930 leading an expedition in search of Harold Lasseter’s legendary gold reef.

 

With Lasseter as guide, the expedition left Alice Springs in July and trucked west via Ngankirritja and Ilpili Spring (Ehrenberg Range) to Walungurru (Kintore Range) near the Western Australian border.

 

Unsuccessful, it returned to Alice Springs in late September but Lasseter continued the search using camels.  Lasseter reported he had relocated and pegged the reef.  He died in thePetermann Ranges in January 1931.

 

Blakeley’s book, “Dream Millions” (1972) gives his account of the expedition.

 

Blakeley supported Aboriginal interests throughout his life, including the establishment of exclusive reserves.

 

Fred loved Central Australia. His ashes were scattered on Ngankirritja on 17th February 1963.

 

Erected by Blakeley’s relatives, the Luritja and Pintubi people, the Ikuntji Community and friends in August 2003.

 

  

Harold Lasseter’s son, Bob Lasseter, blames Frederick Blakely for his Father’s death.  See ABC interview

 

Read more about Frederick Blakeley from Lasseteria website here

Namatjira Drive, West MacDonnell Ranges, with a drive on the left sign, as the area is popular with international tourists.
Return to Alice Springs

Discovering our chosen caravan park out of town was fully booked, we had to stay in a town caravan park.  The annual Alice Springs Show was on that coming weekend, with Friday being a public holiday.  In the northern Territory, fireworks are still permitted and 4th of July is fireworks day.  Fireworks crackled all around us for a few days leading up to the display that took place at the showground during the evening of the 4th of July, of which we had a good view from our caravan. 

 

Sunday nights at the Heavitree Gap Outback Tavern is all you can eat roast night and entertainment attended by many of the guests from the three adjacent caravan parks.  With a selection of roast beef, camel, pork and chicken plus an array of vegetables and salads followed by entertainment with a country style singer and reptile handler who delivered his display with humour and good common sense about snakes.  We paid $10 per head (now $12.90).  Drinks and deserts not included in this price.  With $12.90 specials available every week night there are plenty of reasons for the cook having a few nights off. 

 

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As our touring the previous year had been in areas to the east, west and south of Alice Springs, this time we headed north along the Stuart Highway ready for the next adventure. 
See also Question and Answer about fuel on the Gary Junction Road
See also Question and Answer about fuel on the Gary Junction Road
Permits are required to transit Aboriginal Lands in both Western Australia and the Northern Territory
Note requirements reqarding alcoholic drinks when transiting Aboriginal Lands in the Northern Territory - see Q&A.
The Len Beadell plaque marking the start of Sandy Blight Junction Road is a little to the north of the present road.  
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See Chris and Valdis's trips on the Gary Junction in 2015 and in 2016.
Bush camping is available at Mount Zeil Wilderness Park.